500 words
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Everyone who grew up in the golden age of milk bars in Australia (1940s–1960s) will have a memory or association with these erstwhile hubs of suburban and small town social life...for many it’d be hanging out with friends indulging in their favourite flavour of milkshake. My own fondest recollection is of salivating over chocolate malt sundaes (with nuts) and taking turns at playing the pinball machine in the back corner of the shop. This treat was a exhilarating antidote to the aftertaste of having toiled away for the previous six hours in school confinement.
| B&W Milk Bar with animated mechanical cow |
They were such an institution during my salad days that I thought that milk bars must have been around for ever. In fact they only first surfaced in Australia in the early years of the Depression. The first is generally considered to be the Black and White 4d. Milk Bar which opened its doors in Sydney’s Martin Place in 1932i⃞, the idea of a Greek migrant to this country who had Anglicised his name to Mick Adams and had drew on the American diner/soda parlour concept that was flourishing in the US for his inspiration. The distinguishing feature of the Black and White Milk Bar was its mono-purpose, it exclusively sold just milkshakes (with actual fruit in the drink). Mick was an early entrepreneur in the field, later adding Wollongong, Adelaide, Melbourne and Brisbane shops to his milk bar “empire”. (‘1932: Australia’s first milk bar’, www.australianfoodtimeline.com).
Greek-Australians like Mick Adams were pioneers of the milk bar trade in Australia, typically operating as family businesses – cf. migrant Italians and delicatessens in Australia. The Greek owner-operators added glamour to their shop by infusing them with an American feel...gleaming chrome, neon illumination, plush leather chairs, mirrors, Art Deco interiors, soda fountain pumps, snazzy uniforms, American jukeboxes. These early Greek milk bars (and cafes) were purveyors of American dreams along with confectionery and sugary, flavoured chilled beverages. Historian Leonard Janiszewski describes the agency of the early milk bars as “a kind of Trojan horse for the Americanisation of Australian culture” (‘The story of Australia’s Greek cafes and milk bars’, ABC Radio, Conversations (broadcast 02 May 2016). The milk bar caught on like wildfire—by 1937 there were around 4,000 in Australia, with names like “Olympia”, “The Orion” and “The Paragon”—as they did across the Tasman in New Zealand where the milk bar is known as “the Dairy”.
By the 1970s the heyday of the Australian milk bar was well and truly past its use-by-date. Faced with an inability to compete with supermarket chains and multinational-owned petrol stations plus high rents, milk bar closures (together with that of the community corner store) became an increasingly common sight. 7/Eleven-style convenience stores started to pop up everywhere across suburbia to fill the void (‘Remembering the Milk Bar, Australia’s Vanishing Neighbourhood Staple’, Matthew Sedacca, Saveur, 18 January 2018, www.saveur.com).
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i⃞ a staggering 5,000 customers fronted up on the opening day!
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** the titles “cafe” and “milk bar” seem to be interchangeable in describing these Greek-Australian run establishments